In bamboo scaffolding, bamboo poles are tightly bound together with plastic fibre straps, forming a scaffold structure so strong that it can withstand typhoons, all without the need of any metal or screws. While this ancient craft is considered a dying art in many parts of the world, it continues to thrive in Hong Kong - the childhood home of jeweller Gillian Finlay - where the tradition is passed down through generations of craftsmen known for their skill and physical agility.

Now living in Edinburgh with a thriving jewellery practice, Gillian has never forgotten her fascination with the lattice-like structures that rose up alongside the towering buildings of her youth. Inspired by the strength, flexibility, and artistry of bamboo scaffolding, she has woven these elements into her Scaffold collection - delicate pieces that mirror the intricate geometry and organic beauty of the scaffolds. This year, Gillian was selected for Shine 2024, the Goldsmiths' Centre's prestigious annual showcase of emerging talent in the jewellery and silversmithing industry, marking her as a rising star in her field.

Origins and Decision to Commit to Jewellery-Making
As a child, I was always creative and knew that I wanted to go to art college. I remember having a conversation with my dad who felt I should learn a craft. So, I chose to study at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design, specialising in Jewellery, But while I was there, I also explored other subjects, including sculpture. This influenced my jewellery, because when I look through my portfolio from that time, even then I was making scaffold-like structures for the body. After graduation, I received a grant from the Scottish Arts Council enabling me to focus totally on jewellery. Following a few years as a maker, I had an extended break to bring up my children. 

Once my family was grown up, I decided to go back to designing and making jewellery since I felt I hadn’t fulfilled my making ambitions and what I wanted to achieve. I felt the creative part of me was incomplete and I wanted to finish that story by fully committing to making. Three years ago, I started a studio in Edinburgh. First, I was selected for the Craft Scotland COMPASS: Emerging Maker Programme, and then I did the Goldsmiths’ Centre Getting Started programme 2022. These programmes really helped to continually focus me, so that my path going forward was a stronger one, with much more clarity.

Being Chosen for Shine 2024
I was over the moon when I heard I was selected for Shine 2024. It had been two years since I’d completed the Getting Started programme, and I had taken on board the things that I'd learned from it as I built my new collection. So, when I was selected for Shine 2024, it felt like such a validation. It confirmed that I was on the right path, but also that I was going to learn new things to go forward. Already, I feel like I've learned so much from the programme.

The Evolution of Design: From Memory to Metal
My design style is structural yet intricate. It’s been a long process to refine my technique and making process to get it right for the creation of the Scaffold collection. I’ve done a lot of sketches and model-making to get to this stage. Craftsmanship, detail and precision are what I love in my work. I enjoy challenging myself by learning new techniques and evolving and bettering myself as a maker. I also want to make beautiful jewellery that people treasure, which they look at and think “How did she make that?”.

My inspiration for the collection comes from my fond memories of growing up in Hong Kong, and being captivated by the structures of the bamboo scaffolding against the Hong Kong skyline; the repetitive and complex patterns in the bamboo scaffold, each with their own natural flow. I remember as a child walking through Hong Kong seeing these huge structures, and in my mind's eye, I would reimagine them as these flowing, playful forms. So, the Scaffold Collection comes from my reinterpretation of these memories and this fascination. I am very passionate about it and proud of it as it has such a foundation in me as an artist, and a creative person.

The construction of the bamboo scaffolds is an art form in itself. The scaffolders are amazing. I would watch as they would erect the scaffolding, going up these buildings like spidermen. They would get these nylon ties, and tie them in a certain way, making another pattern where the knots connected. Everything's done really beautifully and methodically. There’s precision and flow in how they do it and I was always fascinated by watching them build each unique structure.

The Making Process
For this collection I've learned how to use a micro flame, which was a new piece of equipment for me, enabling me to precision solder very intricate wire patterns. I have my own technique of pinching, pleating, and folding the wire in different forms, making it more fluid.

A lot of my designs initially come from a memory or from looking through my photographs. I then do a lot of sketching and make multiple models in copper wire. Only once the design works, do I make the final piece in silver or gold. I'm constantly refining this wire work technique, adding elements or trying something new.

Favourite Creations: The Squircle Brooch and Beyond
I love brooches, particularly my Squircle Brooch, that was technically very difficult to create. Getting all the intricate bits of wire together to fit perfectly within the framework was challenging. Its name comes from the shape having elements of both a square and a circle (unbelievably it is a word - look it up!). I was intrigued by a square with the corners of a circle, hence, the squircle. I enjoy that playfulness. I also love the gold pieces as well, although my brooches are probably my favourite.

Jewellery for the Discerning Wearer
The people drawn to my work will be those who enjoy wearing handcrafted, intricate and unique pieces of jewellery, and who have an appreciation for the process of design and creative making. People with a good eye for intricacy and detail who want something a bit different that they can't find elsewhere, a piece that they will treasure for years.

Looking Ahead
I'm really looking forward to continuing to develop and have greater clarity in my maker's voice. I'm also really excited about the Shine exhibition, meeting the other makers, and being part of that collective. I feel proud to be exhibiting this work at the Goldsmiths Centre and I'm really excited about the pop-up, as well as the opportunities to make new connections.

I want to continue developing the Scaffold Collection, extending it - by experimenting with various metals and colours, including different tones of gold, and creating distinct textures and patterns in the gold. Gold wire is such a lovely material to work in - the lusciousness of it - and it moulds into whatever shapes I want it to. There are so many shades and alloys of gold so all the potential things I can do with it are very exciting.

My ultimate goal has always been to do Goldsmiths’ Fair, so going forward, my aim will be to create more work in gold and apply for the Fair with the next phase of The Scaffold Collection.