Katharina Kraus is a fine jewellery designer, maker and curator from Munich, Germany. After graduating with a masters in jewellery design from London’s Central Saint Martins, she launched her first jewellery line in 2018. Exhibitions in London, Milan, Hong Kong, and Rio de Janeiro quickly followed. Katharina has recently been nominated as Young Jewellery Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards. Her next exhibition, following Shine 2020, is at NYC Jewellery Week 2020.
Her gemstone-centred aesthetic has evolved from delicate wirework set with tiny garnets and sapphires, to the colourful custom-cut gemstones she is now known for. Katharina finds inspiration in the moment bright sunlight is reflected on a tall building, and in the angled shadows of a narrow street in the late afternoon. Her jewels are thoughtful gemstone arrangements, from hand-carved grey agate with a deep golden shimmer, to iridescent blue labradorite and rainbow-like moonstone.
The ‘Solasta’ collection is inspired by the many colours of the sky and its ability to transport you through time and place. Exploring shifting qualities of natural light, from deep midnight blue to the vibrant pink and yellow of the early morning sunrise, the elusive colours of the twilight are captured in shimmering stones such as labradorite and moonstone. In most pieces the stone combinations are made to melt into each other, like the sun sinking behind the horizon or round a building corner. Squares, circles, and diamonds are combined to form balance in colour and proportion.
The stones are bezel-set in Sterling silver and yellow or rose gold, lending a distinctive, hand-worked quality to the pieces. The collection is a fusion of colour and geometric lines with a nuanced palette of stones that catch and play with light. All jewels are created using recycled metals and ethically sourced gemstones, which are cut by hand in Idar-Oberstein.